Follow the progress of the canoe trip here

Friday, August 7, 2009

Visit to Nemakus Amikw


Just got back home after meeting the canoe team at Nemakus Amikw ("lakefish spawning"). The group had been low on food for a day or so. Not to the point of serious hunger, but they were clearly not thrilled at the idea of another breakfast of Kraft Dinner! So they were especially happy that when we arrived on Monday with lots of food. We flew in by Otter to Nemakus Amikw on Monday (Aug. 3) and flew back on Thursday (Aug. 6).

The gathering at Nemakus Amikw was at the Awashish family hunting camp. We were there at the invitation of Mini Awashish. Other elders present were Matthew and Elizabeth Shecapio, who hunt in the lands near the outlet of the Rupert River from Mistassini Lake. Betsy Husky was there representing the Husky family, whose lands are located between the Awashish and Shecapio territories. Annie Neeposh, the wife of the guide, Matthew Neeposh, came in to the camp to cook for the group.

In addition to this, Thomas Jolly, the interim ACHP coordinator was there as was our logistical coordinator, Johnny Neeposh.

The purpose of the gathering was to give the participants contact with the people whose lands they are travelling through - to put a human face on the river and to help them understand something of its history, from the perspective of the elders who know these lands best. We had a small film crew present to record various aspects of the gathering.

For me, a highlight of the visit was being able to hear some of the stories of the paddlers. Marlene had told me a very moving account of how when they went by Opaatukus in Mistassini Lake, they stopped at a camp. Some of the people there were making paddles, which she had admired. When they were leaving, the lady (Emma Matoush) gave her one of the paddles. She was so moved by this that she could not stop looking at the paddle when they left, with each stroke she would look down and think of how beautiful the paddle was.

I learned about Terrance's account when he was asked why he was going on the trip. He said that he wanted to meet up with his girlfriend in Waskaganish at the end of August, and he did not have a ride!

And a very funny story about someone who used another's socks for chimisaahun, rinsed the socks, and returned them.

On Wednesday evening, we had a feast. After an offering and a beautiful prayer by Mini, in which she became quite emotional again, we tucked in to a great meal consisting of four geese that were prepared during the day (sikapwaan), sturgeon, puutin, potato salad, doughnuts, etc. It was wonderful. After the meal, Matthew Shecapio got up and gave a speech that lasted about half an hour. He repeated several times that the participants were not just there to paddle and to do archaeology, put to learn about their culture and travel the way it was done in the past. Skills such as lighting a fire are very important. He told of the importance of listening to the advice of elders and recounted a story of a man who refused to listen, and as a result, he and some members of his family starved. Matthew also talked about the importance of not giving up. He said that in relation to the trip, but extended it to other aspects of life, like school. It is important not to give up, or you will regret it later in life!

It was also great to be able to see some of the archaeological material that the team has recovered so far. These include a unique, coronet-style, clay smoking pipe and a beautiful rhyolite biface.

On Thursday, when the plane came in, there was a new participant: a young puppy named Toby that Gabriel's mother had sent him.

Marlene offered to share a short text that she wrote concerning the trip:

Marlene's Text

First, to thank God for watching over us. I'm so happy to be here. I have always wanted to go on a canoe trip and I'm glad to be here with my husband paddling together and to see new things together. The Rupert River is so beautiful to see. Long ago our ancestors used the Rupert River for many things, like for hunting and trapping, and travelling, as have our young people today, who have paddled on canoe brigades before us. I had tears remembering our people, how they lived and used this river. It was hard for them to survive. That is the reason why we are here today. Life is precious, and there are so many stories in the lives of the elders who have been here before us---the river holds so many stories about the people who lived here. And it is wonderful to see our traditional life. When Matthew Coon-come said [at the sendoff in Mistissini] you're going to write a song or a story, too. I guess I am doing that.

At first I did not know anything, and didn't really think about the old days and how people lived in the past but then I began to understand more and to feel really emotional about the river and about what the elders lived through.

To be continued...






Thursday, July 30, 2009

The group is staying put today at a nice campsite. This afternoon, they will do some archaeology in nearby portions of the river and perhaps set some snares to catch some fresh meat. Last night was the first chance to try out the reflector oven that Ben made with a batch of brownies. The icing covered up the ash and charred bits--they were delicious.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Last night, some socializing around the bon fire. Today the group travelled out of the hills surrounding Woolet Lake and into flatter country. They made a short portage of 200 m and shot a few riffles on the way. Gabriel has gotten over his fear of using moss for T.P. This is an important step.
Ben reports this morning that the group spent a relaxing Sunday at a campsite located just below the outlet of Chiikakuiweu Saakihiikan (Woolet Lake). On Saturday, they found an interesting archaeological site on Chiikakuiweu Saakihiikan which produced flakes of Mistassini quartzite.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Ben reports that the group is camped at the bottom of the portage, at the entrance to Chiikakuiweu Saakihiikan (Woolet Lake). Pike for supper!

Thursday, July 23, 2009

The group is camped at the foot of the famous Maahiikan Kaapaatakan (Wolf Portage). Ben reports that today they found an interesting archaeological site containing stone tools and a trade bead. Speckled trout for supper.

Monday, July 20, 2009

A fantastic crossing of nearly 10 kilometers of open water.